Alright, so maybe a vacation isn’t exactly what should be in my thesis log… My thoughts here are that these stories might catch your attention and inspire continued readership. Better yet, you might decide to visit Chile and make your own stories. I’ll be posting a long description of experiments and results next week (I’ll be working with Evie on the figures while we are out in Pichilemu). At this point, I have been changing the water levels every 6 hrs for my clumped mussel run. I hit a few complications last night, so the hours tonight have to be adjusted a bit, but hopefully everything from here on will run smoothly and I’ll have the results of this version on Sunday. I’ll be giving a presentation (not this Monday, but next) of my crab data as well as practicing my fish talk if any of you happen to be in the area
So I’m going to paste the vacation description I wrote for my Mom below. I should add photos this afternoon. As far as my neck swelling, I guess it’s normal to have lymph nodes react to the smog in Santiago. Everything in that department had cleared up by this morning. This just means I have one more city to put on the list of places I probably shouldn’t live…
Here goes:
The best vacation of my life and my first bloody nose:
A brief description of my recent travels in Southern Chile and Santiago.
Day 1: Friday, August 17, 2007
The most important part of an adventure is to start out with clean clothes. Bypassing mundane descriptions, I’ll begin with the evening:
Using the backpack which Evie loaned me, I headed with Randy and Matt to San Antonio to buy a chip for Randy’s old cell phone. I bought a 5000 peso card and waited for the phone to activate. They left me at the bus station in San Antonio around 8 so that I could catch a ride to Santiago for an overnight bus to Pucón. This part of the journey all went smoothly, except frustration at trying to activate the card for my phone credit and waiting for over two hours in the bus terminal for a 12:40 am bus.
I bought pizza and the awful beer (called schop) which is common here to pass the time. Unfortunately, the dessert shop downstairs which had been my after pizza plan closed while I was sitting around reading, so I settled for toffee and stood outside.
INSERT LONG (~10 hour) BUSRIDE HERE – I went Classico (the cheapest option) which is more like airline style seating than the Cama (bed style). It was pretty painful to spend that long on a cramped bus…
Day 2: Saturday, August 18, 2007
I ended up at the bus station in Pucón at 10:30 or so and was instantly accosted by a woman from the German hostel in town. Another woman was traveling alone (we were the last ones off the bus and had obvious large tourist backpacks) and decided to go with the strange woman holding a Lonely Planet guide and photos of the hostel. I was set on ¡école! since both Evie and my guidebook recommended them.
I wandered around lost for ~10 min until I decided that asking at the bus station for directions was the best idea. It worked well. I only had to stop a couple of people on the way for directions and I was there. The lady at the front desk told me that they were very full (as they had told me by email) and led me to the free room (outside and up some stairs). She warned about the cold and that I would have to go outside and downstairs for a bathroom, but I agreed undeterred and threw my stuff in the room.
Back at the front desk I asked about the available activities and was informed of horseback riding at 1pm and hotsprings at 8pm with the option of summiting the volcano or something like that using my full day on Sunday. I said they all sounded great and sat down for tea with bread and honey in the restaurant next to the desk.
After breakfast I asked about the volcano and was directed to a nearby tourist operator where I was fitted for gear and told to return at 7pm to see the weather report. After that, it was naptime until horseback adventures.
Horseback riding:
After paying at the main office, we bought snacks and water and re-boarded the van which took us down a dirt road to a row of waiting horses. I stood back when they asked for people who had ridden a horse before, hoping for an agreeable one. It ended up that they were all very well behaved. I started talking to some of the other members of the group (5 students from Valdivia and a youngish (30’s) couple) as we gently climbed the steep slopes leading away from the town. Eventually, we stopped the horses. A beautiful panorama of the valley below, lakes, and mountains greeted us. We tied the horses in the trees and began to hike…
The first place we emerged from the trees looked across to a gorgeous waterfall. We spent awhile ooh-ing and ah-ing before trekking down to see the very bottom and the little stream which flowed out from the pool at its base. The spray was incredible - and made photos nearly impossible. We hiked back to the horses (and I debated out loud my ability to climb a volcano). The other group had been planning to ski, but they grew increasingly interested in my volcano-climbing plans…
The guide asked us if we would be up for more hiking, and we agreed (a good group). He led us up and we waited in a clearing so that – one at a time – we could lean out over a tree and peer down from the top of the waterfall while he braced us. I was terrified, which left a nice adrenaline high for the ride back down.
I asked the other group of students if I could join them for dinner while we were waiting for our turn at the waterfall. They were a really friendly bunch, and we ended up eating Arabic food for dinner (it was very good). The five consisted of a German couple, a girl from Alabama, a fellow from Wisconsin (who had those blue eyes with dark lashes and light hair that always makes me stare awkwardly), and a Columbian who was often the life of the party.
Leaving the restaurant, we stopped by the bank and grocery and split up to check on our various activities. I ended up back at the shop I had put a deposit with only to find out that they didn’t have anyone to hike with me. Two of the guys from my new group walked in to rent ski equipment and told me the other three were negotiating passage up the volcano. After a few trips back and forth, they gave me back my deposit and I went with the new company (saving ~$20 in the process).
Hot Springs
At eight, we drove out to spend a few hours at some beautiful hotsprings. They would probably have been much prettier if there had been enough light to see the river, but I was still impressed. The series of six pools went generally from hot to cold, or so I was told. I made it to the third before deciding that I preferred hot soaks to walking on sharp rocks with snow on the ground in a bikini to the subsequent, and therefore cooler, pools.
We ate chocolate with the money that people overpaid for dinner. It made a nice combination, although we probably should have ignored the ban on liquor as all of the other groups did… I had figured that it would be fine to bring some, but I didn’t want to drink before the next day’s hike since we were in for 6 or fewer hours of sleep as it was. Eventually, it was time to change and hike back up (a decidedly long set of stairs) to the waiting van.
Day 3: Sunday, August 19, 2007
Summiting Volcán Villarrica
This really would have been a lot easier in the summer. Then the higher lifts are running and there’s not much snow (it was totally covered) reducing the hike to less than 1/3 the time and a tiny fraction of the difficulty. Although, the cool orange outfit, cramp-ons and metal ice axe made it more than worthwhile. I’m not sure how much detail I should use to describe a five hour hike through snow (and bits of ice). I’ll just say that our group was one of the few (and first) to summit and even then only 4 of 8 of our members made it (3 of us being the young women of the group!). It seemed that out of the groups which began, less than a quarter of the people who started the summit actually made it to the top. I found those odds pretty sad considering that I feel very out of shape and I made it up without too much difficulty (although my shins are still swollen).
Once on the top we were greated with the most impressive billows of horrendous smelling volcanic fumes I have yet experienced. I thought back to the wet cotton cloths we carried on Sierra Negra (Isabella, Galapagos) and wished that I had thought to do the same here (although it probably would have frozen to my face with the wind chill). There wasn’t much to see inside the crater itself aside from the abundant noxious fumes. The view around was spectacular! I can’t do justice to the panorama of lakes, chain of Andes mountains, and distant snow covered forests…
Tobogganing
Remember how you always have to hike back down whatever you hike up… That’s only if you lack the snow for tobogganing! Sliding on your butt halfway down a mountain holding an ice axe to control your speed is about the coolest thing I have ever done. I had trouble getting a lot of speed (I need to swallow rocks next time), so my guide rode a couple of times behind me, pushing me with his feet while gravity pulled. We went fast, but they maintain snow-piles at the end of each run (there are sort of trails) so that we avoided careening into a crevasse or off of the mountain.
Goodbyes and Bus Tickets
Unfortunately, I had to say goodbye to the group I had grown fond of. They had class on Monday, so I traded information and bid them farewell. In the meantime I walked back to the bus terminal (the opposite direction from theirs) and bought tickets for the latest Monday bus (9:20 pm). I chatted with the ticket man and decided on Semi-Cama (which I had never ridden before, but it looked nice and the seats go to at least a 45 degree angle). I had the choice of a snack (~$4 extra). Eventually, I decided to go all the way – Hey, it’s a vacation. The ticket man gave me a discount (he must have used his own code, normally you have to be a Chilean citizen with a card) so that I actually went cheaper with both the ticket and the snack! Everyone is so nice in Pucón… Speaking of which, I ran back to shower for my date.
A Date with my Guide
I know what you are thinking, but hey - he was nice (he offered once it came out that the rest of the group was leaving and I was in Pucón sola). It turned out that I had forgotten my backpack at the shop. After helping me retrieve it and finding out that he had to work the next morning (meaning a very early wake up – actually quite relieving for me since it meant a no pressure evening), we headed to a restaurant that he recommended. It was fantastic. I had a hearty soup, a real salad (with 6 ingredients instead of two), and a nice glass of wine. We chatted for a few hours before he paid the bill (I tried) and we left. Since he paid, I was the one buying drinks. As the evening had an early end in line, we walked to the local liquor store and grabbed a bottle of mango sours. We went to his house and watched some music videos (sitting on different pieces of furniture for those of you who think this out of character) and chatted until it was 15min before midnight. I headed back for the hostel before chancing a lockout and leaving enough time for us both to sleep well. The night ended with a nice kiss (on the cheek!) and a warm hug.
He kept hoping that it would rain so we could tour the lakes and such instead of his guiding adventures and my plans for canopy. I didn’t want it to rain, but was glad for the back-up plan and my new guide friend (whom I should email…)
Day 4: Monday, August 20, 2007
Packing Up
I tried to sleep in, with some success. My new roommate woke up early to climb the volcano and I confused her by speaking Spanish (turned out she was Scottish and just learning as she went along). I had a nice marmalade, tea, and toast breakfast (the hostel breakfasts brought back memories of La Casa Sol) and hit the street to find somewhere that offered canopy before 12:30 (the earliest I had heard of). I finally found a shop with an 11:00 am trip, so I booked my passage and headed back to store my things at the hostel and read a book on local native legends by the fire.
Canopy!
Somehow, speeding between trees dangling from a metal cable was less terrifying than I had expected. The culture of Pucón became even more reminiscent of the Galapagos as the adorable Columbian guide made sure that he was my parter for the accompanied section and then asked to trade for my eyes since they were so beautiful (blah, blah) *insert me blushing* The good thing about guides who think you are cute is that they go down with you on a long run, face you backwards with the instructions to let go when they tell you too – they’ll hold your legs, and then do so – flipping you completely upside down so that you can see where you are going but are screaming in joyous terror. Once again, an incredible adrenaline rush and one of the coolest memories of my life (speeding upside down between seemingly dangerous and pokey trees with a view of the mountain is pretty damn cool).
Shopping Spree / Food
In the end, it lasted a little less than an hour and we were headed back to Pucón. That left me an afternoon to find something else fun to do. Four other people had been canopying with me (two London girls and a mother/son pair from Santiago). The London girls wanted to go rafting (which I had also asked about before leaving), but we needed one more person. I gave them my cell (they were also headed to Santiago, so we planned to hang out there) and tried to explain how to use a pay phone since her cell was international.
I left to go shopping, spent too much on fleece socks (but I’ve been looking for them online) and bought a few more postcards to send (I’ve written a ton, but have yet to make it to an open post office). I tried to find a good deal on ski pants for the trip (otherwise I was stuck with my rain pants), decided they were too expensive (>$100), and instead bought only the necessary gloves (~$7).
I was walking back to get some lunch when one of the company operators found me on the street. The other girls had decided on hydrospeed. If I decided to go, we would all get a better price and it would take us down class 3 rapids. I was interested, especially since our horseback guide had recommended it and I had no idea exactly what it was. I went back to the hostel associated with the company to look at pictures, talked to the guide when he showed up, and ran back to ¡école! to change my massage time and eat (very quickly!).
The hostel folks were wonderful. I asked for something fast and pre-made and out came a hearty vegetable soup and salad in what seemed like seconds. I had plenty of time to shovel down the food, change into my swimsuit, and pay for my lunch before dumping my pack behind the counter and running out the door.
HydroSpeed (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrospeed)
We didn’t have the new high-tech boards. Rather, ours were made from sheets of foam which had been cut and glued together into a half-boat shape. I took to the sport much more easily that the other girls and was quickly sent to be the tail down the rapids (he actually held their boards to guide them down through the really rough sections. It was amazing. Rapids that would have felt like nothing were torrential whitewaters as the board hit 6 foot waves which loomed overhead. I did flip at one point, but managed to right myself as we had been taught in the eddy we entered (it was a bit harder in the actual rapid since there were rocks and such, but it worked out fine). I kept remembering all of the times I have jumped in to float rapids or fallen out of a raft, only I was head first and on my stomach (completely opposite my training and my body’s desired response). I think this complete perversion of my experiences added a lot of excitement to an already terrifying and adrenaline-filled adventure. I think I should buy a couple of the boards for the McKenzie – class 3 rapids might be not too exciting to raft, but they would be thrilling to hydrospeed…
Massage
After being cold and wet I settled into a cup of warm hot chocolate and a piece of apple pie with cream. Eventually, I headed back for my massage. I spent a lot of the time talking to the German woman giving the massage (to relieve the awkward that comes with a stranger touching me rather than because I really wanted to). She was very nice, and trained as a physical therapist. Massage is her way of making it while her papers are sent in to see if she can practice in Chile. Her boyfriend is Chilean, and she still seemed shocked at her own change in location and occupation. I got the impression that she was unhappy at not using the full range of her skills. While the massage was lighter than I would have preffered, I figured she probably knew best. The hour flew by and before I knew it I was in a nice big seat on my way back to Santiago.
First Class Bus
I’m not going to spent too long describing a bus ride, but it was so nice!!! I’m almost glad to have taken the Clasico on the way there since the return journey felt like living in the lap of luxury. I reveled in my reclined seat, enjoyed the delicious sandwich snack, and was surprised by the breakfast we received in the morning. In the future, I will spend the extra for the overnight trips – the bus becomes an adventure in itself.
Day 5: Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Finding Sergio
The London girls hadn’t left a message on my phone, so I went ahead and took the metro to the Universidad Catolica and called Sergio for directions. I guess I caught him in the shower, and I ended up standing around by the metro station for ~20 min. It wasn’t a bad wait and the apartment was fairly easy to find. It was nice to set my stuff down and read my guidebook. I planned a basic itinerary with some input from Sergio and he gave me a brief tour of the University as well as a set of keys before I headed out. I like this having a cell phone thing.
Adventures in Santiago
After a metro ride and long walk (with some stops to ask for directions) I made it to the end of the teleferico that is basically in the middle of nowhere (i.e. a heavily residential area which is far from metro lines). I planned to take it up Cerro San Cristobal and take the ascensor down, ending up in the bohemian area where I could see Neruda’s final home and wander around. Instead, I found out that the teleferico wouldn’t be running until 12:30, so I headed back for the metro station to start at the other end…
I started with La Chascona, the only house of Neruda in Chile which I had yet to see, and moved on to take round trips on the ascensor and teleferico. I hiked around the park and enjoyed the views. The teleferico was really fun, only the grafitti on the clear plasic marred my enjoyment of swinging through the sky in a giant colored egg.
Eventually, I returned to the Universidad to visit the nearby market and buy some lapis lazuli jewelry. I spent a couple of hours shopping around, eventually finding something cheap and pretty and picking up the cutest hat ever for Silvan (Teressa’s son).
Realizing the time, I abandoned my home for a nap and headed to the highly recommended Pre-Columbian Art Museum. I had an amusing English conversation with the police officer I asked for directions (he wanted to practice) while I ate the delicious empanada I bought at a store in the metro terminal. The museum was fabulous. I learned a lot, enjoyed art unrivaled in modern times, and finally found some good souvenirs for my Mom in the gift shop (b/w photocopies of books on the indigenous cultures – which cost more than the copies were worth, but it wouldn’t be possible to find originals).
I hoped for a movie, but was really tired and still circling movie times in the paper I bought on the way back when Sergio came to the apartment. I went with him and a couple of the ECIM guys to buy furniture at Sodimac-HomeCenter. Everything was a lot more expensive than it would have been back in the states, but was apparently very cheap for Chile. The shower curtains were a good deal, but all of the wood products were grossly more expensive than I am used to (especially considering most were pressboard).
After shopping, we headed to Andres’s apartment for snacks and ordered pizza (it was his birthday). I quickly fell asleep on the couch, and was woken as we left.
Day 6: Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Snowboarding 101
It was an early morning, so I napped most of the way to the slopes. It took a long time to get fitted, and it was a while before our lessons. There were only two of us snowboarding and I ended up with what resulted in a private lesson when the other guy’s strap broke and he left to get it fixed (he actually went to eat with everyone).
The lesson was very frustrating but useful. I had some lunch and rested before I dared to go up the real (long and steep) slope which my instructor had warned me against. It went pretty well. I only fell a couple of times. The problem was that I was going pretty fast and the second fall was hard and face first so that I flipped and landed on my back. I had the wind knocked out of me, but Evie was really sweet and stopped to sit with me while I regained my senses. It turns out that I ended up with my first nosebleed and some good bruises.
The second time down went better, resulting in only one real fall where I managed to bruise my chin (I didn’t even know that was possible). We had to get to the bus by 5:30 with everything turned in, and the slope shut down at 5, so I didn’t spent much longer sliding around.
We went out for amazing pizza at the end of the day and I had a personal sized bottle of wine (half of which is now in my room since I just wanted a single glass). My throat swelled up at night due to what I assume is bruising in my neck, so I didn’t sleep fantastically. Luckily, I can now rest after my adventures and take enough Tylenol to fight off the impending headaches.
Day 7: Thursday, August 23, 2007
Return to Las Cruces and a Prairie Home Companion…
That’s (more or less) it! The end of my amazing vacation adventures. I’ll add names and photos as soon as I get around to downloading them.
Love and fishes,
Chrissy
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